This is a continuation of the Retro Gaming Console article from last month, where we learned how to build the inside of a retro gaming console. This installment will show you how to build a case for the project using an ODROID-C1+ / C2.
Now that we have our custom control buttons made and the board set up with a power button connection, let's work on the case. First, we need a place for mounting the buttons. There are two places on the case that can easily accommodate the buttons without interfering with the heat sink or any other internal components. One place is on the right-hand side of the back panel, just above one of the those jumper connection points, pwr. The other is a little to the left side, just past the center of the case. You can use the same positions for both the C1+ and the C2, although things are a bit tighter in the C1+. Below are two prototype devices with the buttons mounted. The holes weren't perfectly lined up because these were experimental builds.
(Figure 1 - Two prototype devices with buttons mounted)
A small sticky note does wonders for this part. Depending on the diameter of the buttons, you can use a ruler to position the holes on the sticky note, then compare it to the actual device. For this you may want to set the device inside the case and place the top on without closing the case. You don't want to have to suddenly stop and wrestle the case back open. Move the note around, adjust your lines, and see if you can locate a good spot.
NOTE: Keep in mind that the heatsink will block the switch if it's not high enough inside the case. NOTE: If you are working with a C1+ unit, the power jumpers are right next to the button mount point. Make sure there is room for them!
(Figure 2 - Use a sticky note to position the buttons in your case)
It’s drill time! Any old drill will do. I have a cheap $20 USD drill with an affordable drill bit set. Check the dimensions of your buttons: they should be around 6mm (0.25 inches) in diameter. Make sure your target drill bit isn't too big. After drilling, you want the holes to be just a little bit too small. I like working my way up from the smaller bits to the larger one, rather than going straight to the larger one. I find there are less errors this way, as each bit only removes a little plastic. You can even walk the hole in a slightly different direction by shifting a little with each new bit. This is great for last minute adjustments in case you make a slight location mistake.
Keep your finger on the sticky note and out of the way of the drill. Do not let the note slip. Use the smallest bit to drill through the paper and into the plastic just deep enough to leave a visible mark. Remove the sticky note and while holding the case, drill through each hole with the small bit. Work your way up from there.
Below, we can see the larger holes made with each of the successive drill bits. At some point in this process you'll encounter a drill bit that really grabs the plastic and jerks the case. Stop at this point. Place the case on a flat surface near the edge of your workspace so you can access it with the drill. Gently lay your palm flat on top of the case with some downward pressure. This will keep the case from being twisted and snapped.
(Figures 5 and 6 - Each run-through with a bigger drill bit creates a slightly larger hole)
Place one jumper on pin 9, GROUND, of the 40-pin GPIO header. Place the other jumper on pin 15, (GPIO 237 if you are using an ODROID-C2).
You may have to check if the header has changed during some of the hardware revisions. If you have an ODROID-C1+ place the jumpers on pins 15, GPIO 3, and 17, 3.3V.
Alrighty; let’s put it all together. Don't close the case yet--we'll do that at the very end. In fact, put a small piece of tape on some of the clips to prevent them from accidentally clasping. Take a look at your awesome new gaming console--isn’t it shiny?
For comments, questions, and suggestions, please visit the original post at http://middlemind.com/tutorials/odroid_go/mr1_build.html.